The Indian Canteen Review: Gauhati High Court

The new building of the Gauhati High Court looks across at the old one with nostalgia-filled eyes. Up until a couple of years ago, it was the common High Court for six of the North-Eastern states. Though its jurisdiction has changed due to the formation of three new High Courts in 2013, it still remains the hub of legal practice in the region..The infrastructure of the new building is right up there with the best in the country. From centrally air-conditioned hallways to wooden flooring, it is a far cry from what the old building looks like. The change is reflected in the lawyers as well. Younger advocates with eyes transfixed on tablets and smartphones can be spotted rushing towards the air conditioners to get some respite from the heat. The more seasoned advocates are ambling towards the old campus, files in hand, to convene at what has come to be a second home to them over the years..The staff canteen has an old-world feel to it. One look at the menu and you will find an equal mix of vegetarian and non-vegetarian items, and I am satisfied that there is justice in some parts of the world (kindly take note, other court canteens)..Upon entry, you are warmly greeted by the proprietor, the benevolent Mr. Deka. As soon as he sits you down at a table and takes your order, the energetic old man urges his staff to spring into action, and before you know it, your food is on your table, hot and fresh no less..The chicken curry, albeit watery, is quite tasty, and the meat is cooked just right. You can mop it up with half an inch-thick Parathas which are best eaten piping hot. The Fish Curry is even better, with the meat fried before it is dunked into a gravy bursting with local flavour. All rotis and parathas come with a default aloo-mutter, almost like a consolation prize for being vegetarian..The most interesting thing on your plate is the tiny speck of green-chilli based chutney that is very easy to miss. And as I found out the hard way, the quantity is minimal for a reason. The two young advocates seated opposite me are giggling to each other, saying, not very subtly, “Roh raha hai”. Tears notwithstanding, I bravely raise my hand to ask for more..They’re all looking at me like I’m some kind of savage..You see, the limited space in the canteen means you invariably have to share your table with others. And this is the sixth such other who has been seated opposite me in the last half hour. The advocates here have appetites that make you introspect. Perhaps it is a tactic used to stay awake for post-lunch proceedings, or that’s what I think to make myself feel better..I am almost urged to blurt out, “No, people don’t starve where I come from. Yes, I have seen food before.”.Downstairs from the canteen, you will find two bakery-like shops that sell a variety of pastries and sweets. Surprisingly, there are a lot more lawyers here than in the canteen, gorging on sweetmeats. So that’s their secret. I’m not a barbarian after all. I partake in a local sweet called khurma, a finger-shaped snack made of maida, or should I say, sugar, with hints of maida in between. One bite into it and I’m hoping that there is a doctor on call to revive people from sugar-induced comas..All in all, Gauhati offers a satisfying culinary experience without doing too much damage to your wallet..Food – 3.5.VFM – 4.Comfort – 3.5.(Free) Friendly advice – Don’t be intimidated by the advocates’ poor appetites. You are not a savage..PS: The High Court is located in an area rife with restaurants; the location is a blessing for advocates who seek variety. Most notably, there is Dastarkhan, which serves the best Awadhi biriyani outside of Lucknow (sorry Delhi, you don’t stand a chance). As I wait for my food, the manager and I have a conversation about the recent Dadri killings. He offers a solution to what should be done with the lynch mob – “Sabko kaatke biriyani main dalna chahiye.” Fortunately, his biriyani is far more palatable than his words. Packed in matkas, it has the perfect proportion of rice to masala to meat (chicken, not human).